07/30/2006                                               Reprinted with permission from the New Haven Register

At the Seaside: Where Gooch first began to greet on the coast of Maine
by Karen E. Olson , Special to the Register

The sound of surf crashes against my ears, and I gazeout over the green lawn to the sea grasses. The top of a white, wooden lifeguard chair perches on the horizon, and somewhere just beyond it, I know the ocean lurks.
You can’t find a better place to hang your hat in Kennebunk, Maine, than the Seaside Inn & Cottages.

On a recent weekend, my family drove the four-plus hours up to this picturesque, coastal town that’s well known for its lobster, whale watching and presidential summer home in nearby Kennebunkport. It was cooler by the Atlantic than on Long Island Sound, and we relished the salty sea breezes when we emerged from our air-conditioned car.

If you’re just going for the weekend, like we were, it’s best to leave early — we left at 7 a.m. — to try to beat the traffic. We still hit stop-and-go, first in Portsmouth, N.H., before going over the bridge, and again before the toll in Maine on Interstate 95.

Once we got off the highway, we drove through the town of Wells toward Kennebunk. When we finally turned down Beach Avenue, we passed the Franciscan Guest House, a monastery with all the amenities of a hotel but inexpensive, and the White Barn Inn, a Relais & Chateaux property at the luxury end of the spectrum.

We stayed at Seaside, a nice medium ground.

But there is nothing medium or moderate about this inn. To our delight, the Seaside is tucked right up along Kennebunk Beach, a mere five-minute drive from Kennebunkport’s famous — and very touristy — Dock Square. We checked in and met innkeeper Ken Mason, who married into the Gooch-Severance family, which has owned the Seaside since 1667. He and his wife, Patricia, are the 12th generation of the family to run the inn.

According to the Seaside’s Web site, in the 1640s, John Gooch was asked by an agent for King George II to live on the site at the mouth of the Kennebunk River in order to ferry travelers across. Since they usually stayed overnight, Gooch provided rooms and operated a tavern.

The property was handed down to the next generations, and the Severances were introduced four generations ago, when the Gooches had only daughters. And now, Patricia is married to a Mason, adding yet another name to the long line of innkeepers at the Seaside.

As we approached the entrance from the parking lot, a dazzling splash of color greeted us as flowers in full bloom stretched over the archway. (Kennebunkport is no stranger to flowers; Dock Square is peppered with blossoms.)

The Seaside stretches over 20 acres. In the inn building, there are 12 ocean view and 12 terrace view rooms. Our room faced the ocean, although, because of the dune we had to cross to get to the beach, we could only hear it. We had a cozy sitting area just outside the sliding glass doors, complete with a much-needed rack to hang wet towels. I sat with a book for a while, soothed by ocean and bird sounds. A stunning birdhouse towers next to the inn.

The room was spacious, with a pair of two-poster queen-sized beds, cheerful flowered wallpaper and high-backed, comfy chairs. Just outside the bathroom was a changing area that housed a bar sink and small refrigerator. The inn offers free wireless Internet access.

The property also has 10 cottages for weekly rentals with one to four bedrooms, a shuffleboard court and playground. I noted the croquet equipment; the expansive lawn would be perfect for a game, but we never got the chance to play.

Boogie boards and beach chairs are available for guests. The beach is long, with white, soft sand interrupted by clam and mussel shells and smooth rocks. Hermit crabs teeter in tidal pools near a rock jetty as the waves tug at the shore.

The beach stretches far, down to condominiums, and colorful umbrellas complete the picture. The water is cold — it’s Maine, even though we’re not that far north in the state — and I only put my feet in. My daughter, 9, doesn’t feel the chill and ventures out, riding the waves on her Boogie board. It’s her first time on one, but she’s a natural.

The Masons encourage guests to stay and use the beach and outdoor shower even after checking out. Since most public beaches here require passes and provide little parking, this was ideal as we wanted a few more hours on the beach before heading home.

There is scant parking anywhere in Kennebunkport, especially at Dock Square, where we circled for 20 minutes before finding a spot. There’s a public lot behind Alisson’s Restaurant, but it costs $3 an hour.

A continental breakfast is complimentary in the Seaside’s breakfast room. Blue and white china plates decorate the dark wood-paneled walls for a homey feel. The coffee was good, and we toasted bagels and English muffins and piled our plates with fresh strawberries. Blueberry and corn muffins melted in our mouths.

But breakfast was only a teaser in Kennebunkport. Dock Square, with its cute, eclectic shops and myriad restaurants offers tourists a true taste of southern coastal Maine.

The Landing, a hotel and restaurant, has a lovely deck overlooking the whale watching and other boats. It also served a delicious lobster salad, with just a touch of mayonnaise, a melt-in-your-mouth fried shrimp roll and a buttery chowder with huge chunks of clams and potatoes.

For a more creamy chowder, you could try Alisson’s Restaurant, just up the corner and across the street, on the other side of the traffic circle. Pair the chowder with a half a crab salad sandwich, and it’s a perfect meal. Or try the Fish Called Wanda, a fried halibut sandwich with a little tartar sauce.

After lunch, it’s a good time to browse the shops, which boast everything from T-shirts to Christmas ornaments to funky jewelry to books. My favorite is the Kennebunk Book Port, where owners Rich and Ellen Chasse and employees Matt and Katya can recommend the best beach books.

If you’re looking to take a break from the hustle and bustle of touristy Dock Square, take a short drive to Cape Porpoise, a small waterfront village within Kennebunkport.

Here you can see lobstermen at work or catch a great boiled lobster dinner at Cape Porpoise Lobster Co. Inc.

While you’re eating at the outside picnic tables, make sure to throw some fries over the railing so the kids can see the sea gulls fight over them.

After dinner, walk over to the dock and admire the lobster boats scattered in the harbor, the small lighthouse in the distance. It’s a great place for a picture — and to watch the fishermen casting their lines off the dock.

And when the sun sets, make your way back to the Seaside and let the sound of the ocean lull you to sleep.

Reprinted with permission from the New Haven Register

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